A brief glimpse into Swaledale walking and hiking route
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Walk Instructions
When I was commissioned to produce this book of walks
the only stipulations were seven walks to originate from
Askrigg. The remainder to be within half an hour’s drive.
This has allowed me to cross the northern ridge and to
introduce you to Swaledale - a terrestrial paradise!
Wensleydale and Swaledale lie adjacent to one another,
separated by a high, undulating ridge. Both valleys travel
east/west and there the similarity ends. Wensleydale is a
broad bottomed ‘U’ shaped valley. Swaledale’s flatlands
being narrow, the ‘V’ shape obvious.
To drive to Muker turn left after leaving Lodge Yard and veer
left at the road junction just beyond The Crown. A wondrous
five-mile excursion unfolds, the road aiming skywards before
descending to join the solitary Swaledale highway. At the
junction turn left. Muker is a mile west, with a car park
immediately before the bridge.
Leave the car park continuing straight ahead (don’t cross the
bridge) to enter an ancient highwaytrack; immediately to
the right of the road known as Occupation Road (there are
several Occupation Roads within the Yorkshire Dales. The
term came about during the land enclosure period of the
eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. At that time land
became enclosed or occupied - hence Occupation - a road
passing through occupied land). The early stages of this
track are so colourful in season. Seek the pyramidal orchid.
The track rises steeply, presenting wonderful views of Muker
and the Swale gorge beyond. The hill forming the left-hand
wall of the gorge is Kisdon Hill. The farm resting below the
summit will be visited later. A daunting prospect, or, an
invigorating challenge?
Reaching a junction a point known as ‘three loanin end’
(three lanes meet) turn right, then proceed on level terrain
until a concreted ‘bridge’ has been crossed. A few paces
beyond this turn right and descend in another enclosed lane
with the symmetrically shaped Kisdon Hill directly ahead.
Approaching the lower end of the enclosed way the houses
of Muker with its white church clock face prominent, appear
to the right, while the rooftops of Thwaite are seen to the
left. Arriving at a small barn turn left through the gate, cross
a stream and continue in another enclosed lane, heading
towards Thwaite, the next port of call.
After passing through three additional gates, descend to a
narrow gate (if it has been wet you’ll hear the waterfall), cross
the footbridge then follow the track to the main road (is this
the end of the Occupation Road?). Turn left into Thwaite -
where time has stood still, seemingly. Thwaite is a Norse
word meaning - a clearing.
Cross the road bridge and swing right at the Kearton Tea
Rooms. Walk along the ‘High Street’, seeking a stile close to a
telegraph pole. The signpost indicates - Pennine Way. Muker.
No bicycles. Ignore the turn to Angram, instead continue to
the next signpost and turn left (Pennine Way) - this is the
more exhilarating route to Muker!
Cross two fields to arrive at a gate then turn right to walk
around the field perimeter seeking a stile close to a barn. Keep
following the Pennine Way route as the track rises steadily
and arrives at a stile set in a limestone wall. At this point
look across the valley and identify the enclosed way and
the small barn, seen earlier. Graphically illustrated on
this upward section are the plentiful number of barns (a
feature of Swaledale) in the riverside fields. Nearly every
field has a barn!
Beyond the stile follow an obvious path that runs to the rear
of the farmhouse. Pass through two adjacent gates to rise in
an enclosed track. At the top end of this section turn 90° right
and commence a wondrous descent into Muker commencing
with a green swathe, continuing down the access road.
Entering Muker turn right then left to pass St. Mary’s
church and the architecturally pleasing Literary Institute,
then turn left to return to the car park.The original
church at Muker was erected in 1580, as a chapel of ease
to St. Andrew’s, Grinton. Little remains of the original
fabric due to alterations and enlargements over the
years. The last major restorations were in 1890.
Prior to 1580, bodies requiring a Christian burial were
carried manually to St. Andrew’s, Grinton. This involved
a trek of 14 miles from Keld (4 miles west of Muker) - a
journey which took two days, following a route which
became known as - the Corpse Road
The school was founded in 1678. It’s most famous
scholars being Richard and Cherry Kearton, naturalists
and pioneers of wildlife photography. They attended the
school during the latter part of the nineteenth century.
See plaques affixed to the school building.
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Disclaimer: This route was correct at time of writing. However, alterations can happen if development or boundary changes occur, and there is no guarantee of permanent access. These walks have been published for use by site visitors on the understanding that neither HPB Management Limited nor any other person connected with Holiday Property Bond is responsible for the safety or wellbeing of those following the routes as described. It is walkers' own responsibility to be adequately prepared and equipped for the level of walk and the weather conditions and to assess the safety and accessibility of the walk.
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